Showing posts with label pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pattern. Show all posts

September 5, 2016

Overlapping Stripes Baby Hat

To get the actual pattern (pdf), please click here to download it from Ravelry

Overlapping Stripes Baby Hat



A simple striped baby beanie with a slight twist.

Craft Type

Knitting

Skills

Knitting and purling, decreasing, switching colors

Sizing

12.5 in (31.8 cm) around unstreached at brim, 5.5 in (14 cm) tall
Fits head sizes between 12 – 16 in (30.5 – 40.6 cm) around

Gauge

24 stitches and 41 rows per 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

Yarn and Yardage

Color A: 1 skein of Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (Sport, 137 yards per skein) in Citrus
Color B: 1 skein of Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (Sport, 137 yards per skein) in Duck.
Or two different colors, about 35 yards each, of a comparable yarn.

Needles and Hooks

US 2.5 (3.0 mm) 40 in. circular needle or DPNs

Happy knitting!

January 15, 2016

The Good Kind of Remake

In the wirlwind of projects, both craft-related and not, that I've have to complete or are completing for others, I did manage to re-visit an old project of mine.  I got better yarn and knit a new version of my Reversible Eyelet Hat.

To be fair, I guess it wasn't 100% for me, though this version is better than my old one (which I still have and used). The person in my knit group who's responsible for the KALs (which work a bit differently in our group than the more traditional method) decided to focus on hats again, and out of the long list of hat patterns for it decided to list both of my hat patterns.

When she told me this, my first thought is 'dang, I wonder if the first one is good enough for that?'  The Reversible Eyelet Hat was my first knitting pattern, and it was designed on the fly in one size.  As well, I had already seen from those who did it on Ravelry that it ran big.  I also found that after the first year, my original one has stretched out as well and was big for me as well, and I prefer looser hats. So I decided to take my own pattern and re-knit it using nicer yarn, a different gauge, and less stitches.

The good news is that I found that the pattern is 99% correct.  The CO amount with the needle size it gives you will make a big hat if you have around a standard-sized women's head, but the instructions themselves are perfectly fine.  The only correction I would make is that unless you need a large hat (think around 28"), you're better off COing around 92 or 88 stitches, even 84 depending on things like the yarn and needles you're using.  I did 92 stitches using smaller needles for the re-make, but I also decided to use a wool/silk blend that had it's own stretching tendencies (this was probably not the best decision with a hat pattern that also has a tendency to stretch out, but it worked).  The good thing about that pattern is that it is super adjustable, and any multiple of 4 will work with the instructions as written (so I guess I wasn't as much of a dumbass with my first pattern as I thought).  Also, dropping down doesn't affect it as much as you would think, given the lacy and ribbed nature of the hat.  The pattern itself has a tendency to stretch, so you need to counteract that a bit.

So I didn't bother rewriting the pattern (though I will change the CO amount).  But be assured that it is doubled checked now.  Now if only I could take better pictures.

February 21, 2015

Seed Stitch Lattice Hat

See, I told you I'd release another free pattern.

To get the actual pattern (pdf), please click here to download it from Ravelry

Seed Stitch Lattice Hat



A beret style hat that's way easier than it looks. The lattice effect is created using a contrasting color in a slightly lighter yarn than the main color and working seed stitch throughout.

Craft Type

Knitting

Skills

Knitting and purling, decreasing, working in the round, basic stranded colorwork
 

Sizing

17.5" (21") circumference at band, unstretched and blocked.  Fits around at 18 - 20" (21 - 23") head.

Gauge

22st and 32 rows per 4" [10cm] in dual color seed stitch [the body pattern]

Yarn and Yardage

MC: 1 skein of Madelinetosh Tosh DK [225 yds/205 m]
or around 130 yds of a comparable yarn. Sample used
suggested yarn in colorway Dirty Panther.

CC: 1 skein of Madelinetosh Tosh Sport [270 yds/247 m]
or around 100 yds of a comparable yarn. Sample used
suggested yarn in colorway Baltic.

Needles and Hooks

US 5 [3.75mm] 16” circular
US 8 [5.00mm] 16” circular
US 8 [5.00mm] 40” circular for Magic Loop or equivalent
sized set of DPNs

Happy knitting!

February 9, 2015

For What it's Worth

While, given it's a week into February, that my hopes for getting a new pattern out around New Year's are dashed, I am working on one.  Here's a hint:


One of the reasons I have no pattern still is simply because I keep changing my mind.  I keep changing my mind partly because I keep trying things out and they don't work.  Or I don't like them.  Or it's too small, too big, wrong yarn, etc, etc. It isn't helping that I only did one swatch, and it was small.

This is what happens when you think you can knock out a 'simple' item of your own design without doing much pre-planning, out of scrap yarn.  I should have known it doesn't work that way. Now, it doesn't help that I haven't had much time for knitting recently, let alone calculating things officially in a spreadsheet.  Spreadsheets require hours in front of the computer working on them.  I can knit on the subway,  the bus, and wherever I may be at the moment. Might have contributed to my throw-it-to-the-wind half-ass planning, that did.

Anyway, it seems to be working now.  Hopefully.  Though I can't promise when it'll be written up and out, or if I'll be more than one size,  I can promise that I'll release it for free.

I actually thought about that for a bit, even though this pattern is pretty simple and in the end I decided that it'd only be worth between $0.50 and a dollar, which means it doesn't pay to get it tech edited.  And I won't sell a pattern that hasn't been tech edited, because that's not respectful of my users.  If it's free, well, I try to make sure there's no errors, but that's the trade off for getting a free pattern.

However, it does have a different aspect to it, which is why I paused at first.  Even something as simple as this takes a good amount of planning and some time investment.  This is something I have very little of at the moment.  And since my last pattern was put for sale, there's the aspect of going legit on top of it.  Where's the line between free and not?  Should I give my efforts away like that, after I've said they're worth something?

But then I realize, who am I kidding, I ain't a professional in this nor do I want to be.  So, free pattern. At some point.

I did also get this done:

Pattern is Flame Hat by Irina Dmitrieva.  I did the beret version.
Yay, shiny cable hat.  It's a little big, but it stays on my head, covers my ears, and is warm enough. Now what to do with the other skein of that yarn...


June 19, 2014

Tappan Zee Tank

Yes, I actually have another pattern completed.  I've been working on this on and off for the past year, mostly under the radar.  There's a couple of reasons for that.  One, it's a garment, which is by nature bit more complex.  Two, while it's not a super complicated pattern, it's not a beginner's pattern either.  Three, I corrected my design process, went through a few ideas until I found one that worked with the yarn, and then actually sat down and most everything correctly, including hiring a tech editor.  The last is that I did this on top of everything else I do.

Much of this is also related to the fact that the other thing I decided along the way was that I'd put enough effort into this pattern to warrant selling it.

Anyway, all that is done and I'm proud to say, here you go!  My first for sale pattern.

Tappan Zee Tank

Pictures copyright Samantha Thomaier

I named this tank after the Tappan Zee Bridge because, not only was it the second plan of another bridge-named tank, but also the tank's diagonal line design mimics the strong diagonal lines that make up its superstructure. 

The pattern is for sale only on Ravelry, and is as of now priced at $5.00 (US).  Click here for the Ravelry page, or click the following button to purchase: 
 

Craft Type


Knitting

Skill Level


Intermediate level, as it involves standard increases and decreases, shaping, basic crochet, and following multiple directions at the same time (including a element that occurs at different rates). 

Sizing


32” (34”, 36”, 38”, 40”, 42”, 44”, 46”)
[81.3 (86.4, 91.4, 96.5, 101.6, 106.7, 111.8, 116.8) cm]

Gauge


20 stitches x 30 rows per 4” [10cm]

Yarn and Yardage


Valley Yarns Goshen (Worsted weight, 92 yds/skein, 48% Cotton, 46% Modal, 6% Silk):
3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) skeins for color A
3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) skeins for color B

Needles and Hooks


US 5 [3.75mm] 24” circular needle
US G [4 mm] crochet hook


Happy knitting!

_________
Ug, code generators.  The markup's a bit messed up.  Think I fixed it but if it looks wacky in your browser, I'm sorry.  I'll clean it up at a later date.

June 23, 2013

Why You Should List a Gauge For Your Pattern

I seem to have a knack for finding the patterns that don't give a gauge.  It annoys me.  I usually use the pattern anyway, but it still annoys me.

Granted, this tends to happen on free patterns, so you would think I shouldn't complain.  However, as someone who also has developed free patterns, I know how easy it is to get and list the gauge for most patterns.  Yardage missing?  Sure, that's pretty hard to guess at and you need a ounce scale to properly calculate it (and I know I don't own one of those).  Gauge?  No excuse.  None.  I behove anyone who's releasing a pattern to the world to give the gauge, and here's why (and why it shouldn't be an issue):

  1. It allows the user of your pattern to make sure they'll get the same product you did. People knit and crochet differently and have different tension.  That means while you got an adult sized hat using size 6 needles, someone who knits/crochets tighter than you could end up with a child sized hat following the same instructions.  If you don't give a gauge, there's no way for the user to check to make sure they're going to get that adult hat without following your pattern and ending up with disastrous results.

  2. It allows to user to adjust the pattern themselves.  Sure, if it's a free pattern, you could be lazy and only give one size.  That's ok; we understand.  But when you do that and don't give a gauge, the user will be left either wondering what to do to adjust for, say, using a different brand of yarn (which will affect gauge even if the same weight) or how to adjust for their particular size (after all, why go through all the work of making it if it's not going to fit right?).  A stubborn yarn crafter like me may reverse-engineer it, but that's asking a lot from your users just to make sure they get what the picture shows.

  3. It's not hard to calculate and list.  This is the crux of the above.  Sure, there are many useful details that can be in patterns, but some of them require special equipment or some major calculations.  I understand if you don't want to go through that.  But gauge is not one of them.  You did a swatch and/or created the item you wrote a pattern for, right?  You may have winged it and wrote the pattern later, but that means you have the finished item.  Get a ruler out and measure your gauge.  If you're simply writing the pattern, you either got the gauge from a swatch or you're using a set gauge to calculate out your pattern.  Show you work; list that gauge!  There is no excuse not to know that information.  List it on the damn pattern.
So, yeah, you get what you pay for.  But if you have any ounce of kindness towards those you wish to use your pattern (or don't want a flood of emails from the users), list the gauge.  You should know it, so let your users know it too.  Yes, I know that some items it doesn't matter so much (like, say, blankets), and it's not so bad seeing no gauge listed there.  Still, it'd be nice to let you users know because they may end up with a lap blanket when they were trying to create a full one.  Anything wearable?  List gauge; no excuse.  It's needed. Socks are one of those items.  Hats are too.  Some people have big/small heads or big or small feet than 'average'.  Even if the pattern is 'one size', list gauge.  Give your users the tools they need to make your pattern work for them. It'd make everyone happy in the end.

January 18, 2013

Stupid Human Brain

Pictured below is a perfectly cromulent hat, right?  It looks fine (other than that the needle was taken out already).  It's nine cables, and now has the right number of stitches picked up:


Well, it's not.  I miss-crossed every single cable, and didn't realize it until I started reading the directions for the decreases.  I was too busy trying to knit it on the subway and at lunch to bother really reading the chart.  Oh, don't get me wrong, I looked at it.  I looked at it long enough to memorize what rows to cross on and to see that it was a 5 x 5 braided cable.  But for some reason, I completely mis-read the cable symbols.  For this I have no excuse, as they're not unclear (and there's a symbol key right next to the chart in case they are).  I remember looking at it and thinking I comprehended it, though, so I never took a second good look.

'What else is new?', is all I can say now.  I make this error more times than I care to admit.  I do my quick-read and think I got it, it's easy, I can't possible screw it up...just to see later that I was wrong, and it was in front of me all along.  It's not always that I don't bother reading ahead and assume (which I sometimes do too, but that's another issue), it's more like my brain's putting what I was seeing together differently than what was actually there.  Or maybe I'm not looking with enough attention, and my brain is filling in the gaps so I think I read it. 

It's a funny thing, actually, the way the brain does this.   Most people don't notice, especially when, you know,  it works as intended (that is, we fill in the gaps from what we see and are right).  Humans are really good at seeing patterns and connecting the dots, so good, we'll see them when they aren't there. And this is only one way we can be tricked by our brain (if you're interested about this topic, a good book is Don't Believe Everything You Think by Thomas E. Kida). 

However, knowing about it doesn't mean one stops doing it, especially when one is being sloppy and self-confident.  I'm not self-confident about many things, but at this point, I consider myself a decent knitter.  I don't know everything by far, but the things I know I can do pretty well.  But this sometime leads me to skimming patterns in the interest of time or laziness, and thinking I know what's going on. Or thinking I know something and I really only have a hazy idea (or remembered wrong).  Being a fast sight-reader doesn't help this matter; I can read fast, but if I'm being less than attentive I will think I just read it fast when I didn't really capture everything on the page (and again, the brain connects the dots).  Which is how I get the wrong instructions stuck in my head, follow them, only to find out later that if I had just looked more carefully at the paper, I wouldn't be wasting the time in which I could be knitting my main project ripping out and restarting my travel one.

January 13, 2013

Circles and Windows Wrap

A quick but interesting couch shawl or blanket to keep you warm. Two sizes are given so you can choose how much wrap you want.

The highlights of this pattern are listed below. To get the actual pattern (pdf), please click here to download it (the pattern's free, don't worry).

Circles and Windows

Craft Type

Crochet

Skill Level

Easy+ (need to be able to double crochet and do or learn shells and clusters)

Finished Size

Shawl size is 24" W x 73" L
Large shawl/small blanket size is 36" W x 73" L

Gauge

One pattern repeat (7 st and 3 rows) = 3"

Yarn and Yardage

Shawl: 6 skeins Loops and Threads Charisma (Bulky, 109 yards) or 590 yards of a compatible bulky yarn
Large Shawl/Small blanket: 10 skeins of Loops and Threads Charisma or 1090 yards of a compatible bulky yarn.

Hooks

US N/P (10mm)




Happy crocheting!

* * *
If you find any errors in this project, please e-mail CompileYarn[at]gmail[dot]com, or leave a comment  here or on Ravelry.  Copyright (c) CompileYarn(), 2013.

December 16, 2012

Reject the X Cowl

The odder cousin to the Twisted X Neck Warmer, this cowl is first worked in the round, and then back and forth to provide a tighter fit around the neck.

It's called Reject the X because when I first blocked it, I though I had ruined it and came up with Twisted X instead.  Obviously, it ended up fine once it dried.

The highlights of this pattern are listed below. To get the actual pattern (pdf), please click here to download it (the pattern's free, don't worry).

Reject the X Cowl


Craft Type

Knitting

Skill Level

Easy+

Finished Size

15” circumference at cowl top when snapped closed, 3.5” tall

Gauge

3.5 stitches and 5 rows = 1” in stockinette stitch with larger needle

Yarn and Yardage

1 skein Cascade Yarns 128 Superwash (Bulky, 128 yards), or ~70 yards of any compatible bulky yarn.

Needles

US 11 (8mm) 16” circular needle

US 10 (6mm), any type

Other Notions

3 snaps sized 1/0 (or around there)

Thread to sew on snaps


Happy knitting!

* * *
If you find any errors in this project, please e-mail CompileYarn[at]gmail[dot]com, or leave a comment  here or on Ravelry.  Copyright (c) CompileYarn(), 2012.


Twisted X Neck Warmer

Need a quick gift?  Cold and need something to warm your neck right now?  This cowl can be made in a day and is sure to delight.

The highlights of this pattern are listed below. To get the actual pattern (pdf), please click here to download it (the pattern's free, don't worry).

Twisted X Neck Warmer

Craft Type

Knitting

Skill Level

Easy+ (only trick here is cabling. Everything else is straightforward)

Finished Size

About 14.5" x 3.5" after steam blocking

Gauge

4.5 stitches and 7 rows = 1" in stockinette stitch

Yarn and Yardage

1 skein Cascade Yarns 128 Superwash (Bulky, 128 yards), or ~70 yards of any compatible bulky yarn.

Needles

US 9 (5.5mm), any type as this is worked flat.

Other Notions

2 buttons sized 7/8" (or somewhere around that)

Button or embroidery thread in a coordinating color to both sew in the buttons and make the buttonhole loops (you'll need the instructions found here to make the buttonhole loops) (note: link fixed if you found it broken before)




Happy knitting!

* * *
If you find any errors in this project, please e-mail CompileYarn[at]gmail[dot]com, or leave a comment  here or on Ravelry.  Copyright (c) CompileYarn(), 2012.

September 8, 2012

Learn to Knit Instruction Review: Craft Yarn Council's Learning Center

So, what's a web-savvy person going to do when they wish to learn how to knit or crochet?  Search for instructions on the web, of course!  So, my first set of guides are going to be focused on the result of googling for basic instructional guides on how to knit and how to crochet.

To start, I googled 'learn to knit', and got the below site as the first result (no wonder, as one of it's URLs is 'learntoknit.com').  Though the site covers both knitting and crocheting, since I started with learning to knit, this review will focus on the knitting guide first.

The Guide
Name: Craft Yarn Council's Learning Center
URL: http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/learn-home.html, though both www.learntoknit.com and www.learntocrochet.com resolve to the same page as well.
Contains: Guides on learning how to knit and crochet (along with some generic information about both). For the purposes of this review, we're staying in the Learn section of the site.  They have other instructional pages as well.

Summary
If you want to learn to knit well, run far, far away from this site.  The Craft Yarn Council's instructions for learning to knit breaks almost every rule for a good guide, including having incorrect information.  

Detailed Review
I can't say I've heard of this organization before, but the page you start on makes them seem like a good site to learn from.  If you're really curious, you can click on their About link in the top menu bar and see that they're an organization representing different yarn crafting companies (and the companies are listed). Hm, they sure have the resources to put together a good guide, right?

Which makes me kind of confused as to why their knitting guides aren't good at all, at least content-wise.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.

Since the first page is just a generic 'welcome to our guide' page, we can go over to the left hand menu list and click 'Getting Started'.  Even though that's the second link, I don't  care so much about 'Knit vs. Crochet', I want to learn to knit.

Doing that gets you to this page.  It's pretty basic and lacking in much detail, but I guess it's good enough for what it is.  It covers the very basics of  yarn weight, crochet hooks, and knitting needles...pretty good information to keep in mind, though it would be better if they mentioned how to match the needle size to the yarn weight.

From here, we can either click a link on the new left-hand menu, which lists all the guides for knitting and crochet.  I'm not 100% thrilled with the mixing of the two crafts, but it's not horrible navigation.  Also, they conveniently give you a link to both the 'Basic Knit Instructions' and 'Basic Crochet Instructions' on the top of this page, for which the first link takes you to the first link on the left hand side.

The title of this page is 'Learn Knit Stitch (Garter Stitch)'.  Which would be fine if they meant that they're going to teach the user the knit stitch in order to produce something in garter stitch.  But that's not the case.  The first sentence on this page states:
"The basic knit instructions below will show you how to cast on and to make a knit stitch, also known as garter stitch."
Um, no.  The knit stitch is not 'also known as the garter stitch'.  Knitting every row on a flat piece of work produces garter stitch.  But so does alternating rows of knitting and purling in the round. It the set of knit and sometimes purl stitches that make garter stitch.  Incorrect information on the first instructional page; not a good sign.

They then state that they're going to use an afghan square pattern to teach you how to cast-on and do the knit stitch.  First, why is the cast-on instructions on the knit stitch page?  It doesn't make navigating for reference easy at all.  As for learning in the framework of a project, I have mixed feelings about this.  On one hand, it is nice to try to get something good out of your first efforts.  On the other hand, trying to have brand-new knitters make something as the first thing they do is a set up for failure to teach and learn, unless the learner can take from the instructions that maybe the first couple of squares they'll do will be practice, and he/she will know to go on after they get a good square.  Also, this doesn't teach towards flexibility in skill.  Not the worst set-up, though.

What I really have an issue with here is the instructions for what you need.  Do they think they'd get useable squares out of a pattern that tells the learning knitter to get whatever worsted weight yarn they feel like and a pair of US8 needles?  This would have been the perfect place to introduce the concept of gauge and different types of fibers.  You could even tell the learner not to worry about it until they wanted to make a good square even.  But whatever.  The learner has the materials, now what?

Let's learn to cast-on!  To do so, let's learn a version of the Knitted Cast-On without telling you it's a version of the Knitted Cast-On.  It's the only cast-on ever, until you need a different one.  Strike two.

Of course, after only teaching the only way to cast on is teaching the only way to do the knit stitch.  Just like the instructions (which aren't bad) for the 'cast-on' used English style, they're teaching English style knit stitch (which, again, the instructions themselves aren't bad).  Without even stating that it's a style.  Why does it seem like all the guides teach English style as 'the' knitting style?  I don't get it.

So the learner gets done with their first row of knitting.  Yay.  Now here comes this lovely gem:
"Now measure your work. It should be about 7" wide. If it is too wide, start over and cast on fewer stitches; if it is too narrow, start over and cast on more stitches."
What?  No!  You NEVER measure a piece of knitting that's that close to the needle unless you're only looking for a rough estimate of width.  Your measurement WILL be wrong because having the stitches on the needle spaces them out differently than in the fabric alone. Who's bright idea was it to put this line in here?  Also, telling someone who just knit their first row to make sure it's the proper width and rip it out and guess how many more or less stitches to put on to get the right width is really, really bad thing to do.  How are they supposed to guess how many more or less stitches to put on?  If you were worried about the width, maybe you should have talked about gauge and had the leaner practice on a swatch, huh?  That way, they would know how many to cast-on in the first place and they would have some practice with knitting already.  But no, they just now have a frustrated leaner constantly ripping out their work because they're too busy guessing things. Hell, you don't ask a experienced knitter to do that if you don't have to.

So anyway, we get past that, knit the square, and get to the binding off instructions (which also aren't knit instructions, but if the cast-on's here, might as well through in the bind-off as well). The instructions are straightforward and detail the most common bind-off.  Unlike cast-on's and knit stitches, I don't really expect guides to cover alternate bind-offs, because they're pretty situation specific, and 9 times out of 10 you'll only need the standard bind-off (I don't even know if it has an actual name).  Acknowledgement of other bind-offs would be nice, but hey, they couldn't even cover any other standard cast-on so that's to be expected.

It also would be nice if there was a link on the bottom of the page that went to the purl page, but nope, got to scroll up to the left-hand menu bar to get there.

The funny thing here is that on this page, they acknowledge that garter stitch is the product of knit stitches instead of the knit stitch itself (by comparing purling every row to it, which, of course, is another way to get garter stitch).  The actual instructions here are simple and, other than maybe numbering the actual steps, is perfectly good.  Other than the fact that, again, they only show English style but call it 'how to purl', but that was to be expected at this point.

The last three pages in this guide cover increases, decreases, and the yarn over.  Unlike the rest of this guide, they're actually decent.  Both the increase and decrease guide covers two different ways of doing so, and even state that there are many other ways, but here are two of them.  The instructions are pretty clear (which is about the only consistently good thing about this guide), and they even mention the idea of the increases/decreases slanting one way or the other. The only issue I see is that on the increase page, the left-hand menu bar disappears, so I have to go back to the last page to get to another page in the guide.

In conclusion, I don't recommend this guide.  Despite no issue with the descriptions of the steps themselves, the guide itself, and especially the knit stitch page, is set up to confuse at best, and frustrate at worse.  There are factual errors and oversimplifications, and a couple of basic topics are not covered (like gauge and matching needle size to yarn size).  It may have some use for a quick 'how do I decrease again' type question, but that kind of information can be found in many places, most likely easier to find than this site.

January 29, 2012

Mistake Rib Baby Hat

 
Mistake Rib Baby Hat



Errata: 
10-30-2018:  fixed 6-12 month decrease section to align with written stitch count.

Craft Type:
Knitting

Skill Level:
Easy

Sizing:
For sizes 0-3 months (3-6 months, 6-12 months), 12” (13”, 15”) round largest part of hat, unstretched, and 6” (7”, 7.5”) to i-cord tie.

Gauge:
23 stitches and 35 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch

Materials:
  • A lot less than 1 skein of Bernat Softee Baby in Gray Marl (for reference, I managed to to a small baby cardigan and two of these hats out of one skein). If you have about 100-150 yards of another DK weight yarn around, you could use that (and if you don't like acrylic, you won't want to use the yarn I used anyway. It's standard acrylic).
  • US 4 (or whatever you get gauge on), 40” circular needle or longer (for magic looping) or a set of US 4 (or whatever you get gauge on) DPNs (if this is your preferred way of working in the round).
  • Darning Needle

Abbreviations (US terms are used):
CO – Cast On
YO – Yarn Over
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – Knit two together

Notes:
This is done using a 1x1 mistake rib, so it's not reversible.

Instructions surrounded by * symbols indicates repeat sequence until the end of the round. Instructions where there is a number followed by numbers in parenthesizes indicates different numbers or steps for the different sizes. If you only see one number or step, it's for all sizes. If there are different instructions for the brim up or brim down versions, they appear under brackets stating what version in the order 'Brim Down/Brim Up'. If the instructions apply to both, they are started with a set of brackets as such. To note, the main difference is the brim pattern and where to measure the hat from for the body. After that, it's the same.

Instructions:
[Both]:
CO 66 (70, 86) stitches. If using DPNs, spread out stitches evenly across all your needles. If magic looping, split evenly.

Brim:
[Brim Down]:
Round 1: *K, P*
Round 2: *K*
Repeat 1-2 until ribbing is an 1” long.

[Brim Up]:
Round 1: *K, P*
Round 2: *P*
Repeat 1-2 until ribbing is 1.5” long.

Body:
[Both]:
Round 1: For 0-3 month and 6-12 month sizes, K2tog first two stitches, then K to end of round.  For 3-6 month size, just K whole round.

[Brim Down]:
Work in stockinette stitch until hat measures 4.5” (5.5”, 6”) long from CO edge.

[Brim Up]:
Work in stockinette stitch until hat measures 4.5” (5.5”, 6”) long from the start of the stockinette part.

Decrease Rounds:
[Both]:

(For 6-12 month size, start here)
Round 1: *K15, K2tog*
Round 2: *K*

Round 3: *K14, K2tog*
Round 4: *K*

Round 5: *K13, K2tog*
Round 6: *K*

(For 3-6 month size, start here)
Round 7: *K12, K2tog*
Round 8: *K*

(For 0-6 month size, start here)
Round 9: *K11, K2tog*
Round 10: *K*
Round 11: *K10, K2tog*
Round 12: *K*
Round 13: *K9, K2tog*
Round 14: *K*
Round 15: *K8, K2tog*
Round 16: *K*
Round 17: *K7, K2tog*
Round 18: *K*

This should leave you 40 stitches on the needle. If you don't have this amount, please adjust accordingly until you do.

Hat Closure and Poof Top:
[Both]:
Round 1: *K2, YO, K2tog*
Round 2: *K, P*
Round 3: *K*
Repeat 2-3 until ribbing is ½” long. Cast off on round 2 in pattern. Weave in ends.

I-Cord Closure:
[Both]:
Knit a three-stitch, 8” i-cord. If you want more decorative loops, you can make it longer. (If you don't know how to make an i-cord, click here). You can use the same needles as the project, or go down a size or two if you want a skinnier i-cord. Do NOT weave the ends of the yarn into the cord, and make sure at least one end is on the longer side.

Weave the i-cord in and out of the YOs, making sure that both the ends of the i-cord are outside of the hat at the end and are the same length (you may find that putting a darning needle on one of the loose ends makes this a lot easier). Pull tight to shut hat.

Cross the two ends and wrap them around the top of the hat (level with the skinniest part of the poof). Tie ends into a knot on the other side (like the first step of tying a shoe. It doesn't need to be secure, just together.).

Determine which piece of yarn on the ends of your i-cord are longer. Take the shorter one and weave into the i-cord like normal, then tuck the end of the i-cord under the knot, making a small loop on one side. Thread a darning needle on the other piece of yarn, and use it to tuck in the other end of the i-cord under the loop like above. To do this, draw the needle through to the inside of the hat under the knot, making sure to go through the other end of the i-cord already tucked under there, and pull. Then, thread the yarn in and out from inside the hat through the ends of the i-cord and the knot to secure the i-cord and it's ends to the hat. End with yarn inside the hat and weave in the end like a cast off. This should leave tiny loops above and below the i-cord where the knot was placed.

Happy knitting!

* * *

If you find any errors in this project, please e-mail: CompileYarn[at]gmail[dot]com, or leave a comment  here or on Raverly.  Copyright (c) invisican/CompileYarn(). .